I cannot remember how Asilah got squeezed in into our itinerary—a benefit of traveling for a long period in Morocco. We were supposed to head to Chefchaouen after staying in Rabat for three days but here we were, walking the final two kilometers from the train station to town—the sparkling sea on our right, a field of wildflowers with a couple of camels grazing on our left. It all sounds very beautiful and all, except we’re hauling all our belongings with us in the middle of the warm/cold Moroccan afternoon. This town better be worth it.

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GETTING THERE

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From Rabat, where we also did a Morocco Sale day tour, we took a four-hour train ride from Gare Rabat Ville train station via the ONCF to the Gare Assilah station (MAD 88.00 | USD 8.80). By now, we were pretty confident we’d be riding a clean and modern train, and true enough, even with the cheapest ticket on sale, we even had a cabin all to ourselves.

The northern route to Asilah was scenic, with landscapes worthy of a Windows wallpaper speeding past our windows. The only thing we could’ve wished for was a couple of bags of crisps, or even a box of pizza which we fully consumed at Rabat before going (see our Rabat food trip).

The hard part of getting to Asilah was after alighting at the train station. If you don’t have a pre-arranged transfer from your lodging, you’d have to walk the final three kilometers to town. Which most of the passengers who alighted, including us, did. To be fair, it is a scenic walk, but a walk that’s best done without the midday heat of the sun.

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THE ONCF TRAIN CABIN FROM RABAT TO ASILAH

FOUR HOUR TRAIN RIDE WITH PICTURESQUE VIEWS

THE ASILAH TRAIN STATION

THREE KILOMETERS WALK TO TOWN

 

 

PENSION SAHARA ~ HOTEL SAHARA

  ADDRESS: RUE TARFAYA N.9, ASSILAH | GPS COORDINATES MAP: 35.467513, -6.031700

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Our lodging was a few blocks away from the main gate to Asilah’s medina. It was a blessing in disguise as we got to save about a kilometer of walking with all our baggage on our backs. We rang the bell on Hotel Sahara’s very Moroccan lobby—white walls with blue trims, flowery intricate floor and wall tiles, brass lamps, and hand-painted Moroccan plates for display.

We were then led up to the checkered-tile roof deck, which was surrounded by small rooms—one of these was gonna be ours for two nights. The rooms were indeed tiny, but we were able to manage. It has a small window, an in-room wash basin, a bedside table, and a small table which we used to eat take-away meals.

The toilet and bath were shared, and if you wish to have a hot shower, an additional ten dirhams (USD 1.00) is charged. We opted for the cold shower—which is, surprisingly, doable even on a sixteen-degree weather.

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HOTEL SAHARA LOBBY

LODGINGS ON THE ROOF DECK

OUR ROOM FOR TWO NIGHTS IN ASILAH

 

 

VILLE NOUVELLE ~ ASILAH CITY

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A mid-sized Catholic church—the Hispano-Moorish Church of San Bartolome, built by Spanish Franciscans in 1925—greeted us a block away from Pension Sahara. It was a surprise to see a Christian church on an otherwise very Muslim country, in fact, it’s one of the few Christian churches allowed to ring its bell during Sundays in the whole of Morocco. This is a testament to Asilah’s past when the Portuguese conquered the city in 1471, building the fortification that is now the medina. Another indication is the language, from French-speaking Moroccan in Casablanca, Rabat, and Sale, we’re now dealing with Spanish-speaking Moroccans.

Walking towards the medina gates, we went past a plaza, then a whole avenue of small cafes and al fresco restaurants before reaching the massive circular Bab Al Homar gate, one of the two entrances to the medina.

Saving our medina visit for later, we went left towards the local market—which is more like makeshift stalls along the sidewalk—for a late lunch.

Our initial impression of Asilah is extremely positive, the people are warm and the streets felt absolutely safe. A very far cry from our four days in Casablanca.

THE CATHOLIC CHURCH OF SAN BARTHOLOME IN ASILAH

A WIDE ALLEY ALONG ASILAH’S NEW MEDINA

KIDS PLAYING ON A PLAZA IN ASILAH

A LIVELY SEASIDE BOULEVARD IN ASILAH

 

 

ASILAH OLD MEDINA ~ THE PORTUGUESE FORTIFICATION

  OPENING HOURS: 24 HOURS, DAILY | ENTRANCE FEE: FREE | GPS COORDINATES MAP: 35.465251, -6.038202

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The center of Asilah is its medina. Built and abandoned by the Portuguese, it became a base for a crusade, was made part of Morocco, then got lost to Spain, became a fort for pirates, and got bombarded by Austria for it, before becoming part of Morocco once again. Quite a history for a very small settlement!

We fully explored the old medina the next day—wending past freshly painted blue and white walls making up the alleys of the city, admiring colorful carpets draped for drying along roof parapets, dodging cats, donkeys, and footballs, and taking selfies along its beautiful doorways and wall murals. I’d have to say that this is the cleanest and safest medina we’ve been to throughout our month-long Moroccan tour.

BAB AL HOMAR, ONE OF THE TWO MAIN ENTRANCES TO ASILAH’S MEDINA

A TOWER INSIDE ASILAH’S MEDINA

KIDS PLAYING FOOTBALL | ARTWORKS BEING SOLD INSIDE THE MEDINA

THE FORT WALLS OVERLOOKING THE ATLANTIC

OLD CANNONS OVER THE FORT WALLS

 

 

ART CITY

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Asilah made its name as an art capital. During the late seventies, the medina was restored by its mayor and together with a particular painter, an art festival was organized—the International Cultural Moussem of Asilah. It garnered traction and help drove tourism in the city.

Today, the medina is replete with colorful murals and small wall sketches. It really can’t compare with the extensive street art in Penang, but it is a facet unique to the medina of Asilah—something you won’t find on any other medinas in Morocco.

ASILAH STREET MURALS

AN UNFINISHED WALL MURAL

PAINTED AND REAL HANDS

ASILAH MEDINA HAS A VERY VIBRANT FEEL

 

 

SHOPPING

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Having one of the smallest medinas we’ve visited, shopping isn’t as grand as on other major sites in Morocco. But what it lacks in size, it makes up for in uniqueness. Besides the usual hand-painted plates and tagines, leather bags, Berber fabrics, rugs, and knickknacks, Asilah is a haven for artworks. Granted, you won’t find any Monet-level paintings here, but the ones being sold by locals can be a very unique keepsake from Morocco.

LEATHER SHOES IN ASILAH

COLORFUL BERBER JACKETS AND BAGS

HAND-MADE BRACELETS FOR SOUVENIRS

 

 

PLAGE DE ASILAH & PORT D’ ASILAH

  OPENING HOURS: 24 HOURS, DAILY | ENTRANCE FEE: FREE | GPS COORDINATES MAP: 35.467045, -6.039290

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On the afternoon of our second day, we visited Asilah Beach. Located right beside the medina, it’s one of the most picturesque and cleanest I’ve seen in Morocco. The one near the medina is not as expansive as the Plage Ain Diab in Casablanca, but the ones on the outskirt of town are.

Going where the locals go, we climbed up the embankment separating the sea from the shore, the boulder-strewn levy is a popular hang-out for locals during the afternoons. But instead of simply sitting by the rocks to wait for the setting sun, we decided to walk ‘til the end of the embankment which circles round a protected bay for boats.

The walled platform is about a foot thick, the sea on our left, and a ten-foot drop on our right. It was easy enough to traverse, if only the wind wasn’t whipping like it was the end of the world. But yes, it was whipping like it was the end of the world. The kilometer-long walk felt like forever. We heaved a sigh of relief as we finally reached its end and decided to walk on the ground on the way back.

THE PICTURESQUE ASILAH BEACH

FORTIFICATIONS ALONG THE BEACH, VERY GAME OF THRONES

WE DECIDED TO WALK ALL THE WAY TO THE END OF THE PORT D’ ASILAH

LAMPS ALONG THE PORT

BOATS DOCKED SAFELY INSIDE THE PORT

 

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